I Snuck Away to Cartagena . . . And Fell In Love
The past two quarters, professionally and personally, have been some of the most productive, yet work-intensive quarters of my life. Thankful - EXTREMELY! However, the need for a real reset has been knocking at my door for a while now, and it’s time I answered.
Only after turning in 4 brand campaigns, two interior renovation plans, and pulling off my parents’ 50th wedding anniversary party (yes, 50 years - more to come on that lovely milestone), it was time for me to escape and get a little . . . nah, MUCH . . . rest and relaxation.
So . . . I hopped on a plane and spent five-and-a-half glorious days in Cartagena, Colombia. And in case you plan on going there in the near future, I am passing along some of my favorite places visited! Warning: this roundup may be very food-focused!
Why Cartagena?
Inside the walled (Historic Center) city, you’ll find a color feast for the soul with how beautifully all the buildings are painted!
Since I was a little kid, I’ve had a fascination with Colombia and its colorful and rich culture! And with having friends from various parts of the country, from Bogotá, Cali, Medellín and Cartagena, I’ve loved learning of the varied facets that make Colombia diverse in beauty.
Too, and since this was a solo trip, I wanted an experience that was more private so that I could take in the sights during the day, and calmly reflect during the evening without distraction - and in a pool to myself. I originally had my plans set for Panama City, Panamá. But, after not being able to find an Airbnb with the private amenities - more of a bungalow style - I hoped for, I turned my search to Cartagena.
For its historical significance in the Caribbean and New World, picturesque parts of town, food, and similarity to my ancestry, I wanted to visit a place where I could be the new kid at school, ready to learn everything Cartagena had to teach me.
With just two weeks until my departure, I found the PERFECT private home in the middle of the lush, walled city - private pool included. For all general purposes, I was set . . . . Until on the plane ride there, I realized that because I’d been focused on everything else with work and the party, I’d not booked any activities nor made the first dinner reservation!
My personal travel style is a mix of 35% organized activities, and 65% come-as-they-may plans. So, I wasn’t too pressed, because I knew my main goals were to rest and have a good - but passive - time exploring!
With that, come along as I recap my “planned-as-I-went” vacation to Colombia!
Saturday - Arrival Day
The street I stayed on, and next to what seemed like the perfectly formed floral archway over the road!
Because I like to do a little passive exploring on day one of vacation, I book very early flights. After customs - which could take some time to get through - I arrived to my house for the weekend around 3:30pm. I was greeted by the homeowner who also gave me a tour of the place! Don’t worry, your tour is at the end of this post :-)!
Since I was still a bit tired from the party night before, this day’s exploring was VERY passive. Thankfully, the homeowner left me a “to-see” map of the walled (Historic Center) city, and as I casually walked the streets of the town of San Diego, I called to make same-day reservations for dinner. I didn’t know I was in for the best welcome dinner experiences the city could offer!
Restaurante Fuerte Del Pastelillo
Now, if you read the description of the restaurant, you’ll know that they specialize in seafood, and as a vegan, I have no business at a seafood restaurant! However, and as I found was the case for every restaurant visited, the chefs are amazingly accommodating and are well-versed in true, vegan cuisine.
This bayside restaurant stole my heart as I walked up the stairs to the patio suspended over the water.
Sautéed and Grilled Eggplant | Vegetable Pasta in an Olive Oil and Lemon Sauce, Topped with Fresh Sprouts
Let me set the scene: nestled in a table for one in the corner of the patio, you listen to a medley of live boleros being sang and played, as the waves tenderly crash against the patio deck, and the family across the restaurant begin celebrating the marriage proposal that just took place. The waiter places an ice bucket next to you that chills your favorite bubbles, and pours you the first of several glasses of champagne. As he says to you, “Salud”, appetizers of plantain and yuca slices are brought to the table. After finishing the first course, your second glass of champagne is poured, and you enjoy the, now live flamenco, being played. Your main course arrives, and it is a beautifully prepared plate of sautéed and grilled eggplant with a vegetable pasta tossed in an olive oil and lemon sauce, topped with fresh sprouts . . . divine!
Shortly after finishing the main course, and your third - ok, fourth - glass of champagne, a double espresso is brought to the table before you head back home for the night. At the last sip of your espresso, you hear fireworks in the distance, as they become part of the ambient song of waves, wind and guitarras.
This was my first-night dinner experience at Restaurante Fuerte del Pastelillo.
As I ubered home, and thinking about the rest of my trip, I asked the driver what were some of his favorite things to enjoy in Cartagena. His recommendations helped guide the rest of my trip here.
Sunday - Day Two, also the Day I Turned . . .
35, y’all! Honoring the day I made it to this life, I wanted to make sure I took things SUPER easy. So, as I laid in bed, I looked up, “vegan breakfast near me” . . .
Brunch: Café de la Mañana
Papaya, Pineapple and Banana with shaved mint and lime zest, and agave drizzle | Macchiato
Just a six minute walk from the Airbnb, I visited Café de la Mañana. Let me tell you, the vibes in here were immaculate! From the Latin indie playlist, the breeze dancing through the windows, to the joyous, two-person staff who ran this semi-packed cafe like a well-oiled machine, I’m glad I decided to get out the bed for my cafe de la mañana - “morning cup of coffee”.
Along with a fruit medley of agave, and lime zest and mint-coated papaya, pineapple and bananas, I got the falafel and avocado ceviche (guacamole). I wanted something light, and along the lines of my current meal plan, so this was the perfect option! And the falafel . . . absolute perfection, as it mixed with the flavor of one of the freshest batches of guacamole I’ve ever tasted. The avocados here are lightly sweet!
A proper brunch is also served here. I simply decided to go light for the morning because I planned to have a feast later on!
After an hour of light bites, coffee and watching passersby enjoy the city, I moseyed back to the Airbnb, where the pool, champagne and travel-napping* around the house consumed my entire schedule until dinner.
Travel Napping* an activity I enjoy of napping in different parts of a home just because its an option, and an effective way to find the perfect nap location.
Dinner: Alma Restaurante
After a glorious series of naps, I made my way to Alma Restaurante. But not before I had to wishfully redo my dinner reservations because . . .
Technically here, I still had 10 minutes to walk to dinner. And what is getting ready for dinner if you don’t dance to your favorite salsa playlist first? Plus, the restaurant was just a 6-minute walk, so I was fine! So I thought *covers face*.
A couple of factors I was made aware of on the walk to dinner: At night in August, (especially) Cartagena gets humid! I mean, you could almost cut the air with a knife it was so spongy. Also, within the walled city, the streets are like a labyrinth. One moment of distraction from your GPS, and you could end up on a 20-minute walk . . . like me.
20-minutes later, and a whole outfit sweated out from walking, I made my way back to the Airbnb to reschedule dinner for 45 minutes later so I could shower (again), change, and get a ride back to the restaurant.
When I made it to Alma - wow!
Appetizer - Watermelon, Grapefruit and Passionfruit Salad, Topped with Basil, Spinach, Sundried Tomatoes, with a side of Balsamic Glaze, and Raspberry Sauce with Pesto.
If this is the way dinner began, I couldn’t wait for the main course! As I settled into my corner booth in the restaurant - my favorite place to sit when I dine within my company - the waiter asked me why I’d not yet taken a photo of my food, and later told me to “get my camera ready, because all of the food is beautiful”!
I knew this was going to be a great experience!
Served with a side of coconut rice - which is now my new, favorite way to eat white rice - I was served their Chickpea Bowl: Chickpeas cooked in coconut milk, lentil croquettes, avocado, flamed palm hearts, pickled onion, confit tomatoes, marinated cucumber, pesto, chili pepper coulis.
Y’all, I still need to take a moment of silence for just how delectable this meal was! Oh, and did I forget to mention that this main course was just 54,000COP, or FOURTEEN DOLLARS?!
I should have led with, food here - and product/service consumption in general - is pretty inexpensive.
Also, of course I had champagne with this meal!
After Dinner: Live Music?
After dinner, and an unplanned, but much-needed disco nap, I wandered* over to the neighborhood of Getsemani, and walked into Cafe Havana - a salsa-lovers dream destination! Although I had every wish to, I did not dance this night. But, that’s just because, as I sipped my New York Sour, I sat in awe of the live band playing that night. On Sundays, Charanga Tiembla Tierra plays two full sets. And let me tell you, the whole time I sat their with goosebumps from how magical their melodic execution was of all of the salsa and bolero classics!
Wandered* - in vehicle. Although generally safe, walking from San Diego to Getsemani at night isn’t that recommended.
Please make your way to Cafe Havana when in Cartagena. Be ready to smile, dance, enjoy a scrumptious cocktail, and did I mention, DANCE?!
Day Three - Create. Wander. Eat. Repeat
Because the morning started off pleasantly rainy, I went with the ease of the day and spent time creating day-in-the-life content around the house. This also gave me time to snack on the fruit I’d bought the previous day. If you like to grocery shop when on vacation, and staying in the Historic Center in Cartagena, go to Éxito market.
Plaza de la Trinidad, Cartagena
After the morning’s creative session, I ventured back to Getsemani where the restaurant I researched, El Bololó, is located; as it sits right at the front doorstep of Plaza de la Trinidad!
For lunch, I got the veggie bowl. I don’t think there is a meal in this city that is nothing less than perfect!
Vibrant Streets of Getsemani
After lunch, and a nice, afternoon thunderstorm, I started walking about the neighborhood of Getsemani in search of art. Little did I know, as I turned around and headed for the Plaza, I was about to experience art in motion!
Joyfully greeted by Fernanda (left) and Maria (right), I got a chance to dance with two of the renowned Palenqueras of Cartagena. Now, please know to be prepared to tip the palenqueras - as is customary here in the city for anyone in the arts and providing a service/moment of entertainment.
We created this moment together! And what a special one it was! I saw my aunts and great grandmothers reflected in these iconic women! Another moment decorated by goosebumps and joy!
Before heading home to enjoy the heavy rainfall of an evening thunderstorm, I stopped by a local emerald merchant - because why did I just realize that Colombia is the world’s largest producer of emeralds?!
One, I’m still dreaming about this ring. Two, if purchasing emeralds in the country, it’s recommended to ask if the store is able to offer you a certificate of authenticity for the stones. This just helps secure your purchase of a true emerald.
Dinner with Carmen
Cocktail - ONÉSIMO ANDINO: viche Mano de Buey, pisco, aguardiente, pineapple, golden gooseberry & ginger oleo
Although just a two-minute walk away from where I was staying - something I discovered after dinner - I took a rainy ride to Carmen; a well-appointed restaurant whose cuisine matches its impeccable atmosphere. Although this restaurant popped up in my on-plane research of where to eat in Cartagena, the larger coincidence is that the homeowner of where I was staying is also the head chef of this restaurant group - Carmen Angel!
Oddly realizing, now that I am going through my photos, this was the only photo I got of the restaurant’s interior; and mainly because each night I went - because I went multiple times - the place was PACKED. You’ll just have to go to experience the gorgeously designed restaurant for yourself!
The amuse-bouche of the night: I can't remember much outside of it being made from avocado, a peanut sauce, and fennel. But I do remember that it was absolutely divine!
The appetizer was a pair of passionfruit, watermelon and mushroom tostadas. The combination of ingredients was surprising, for sure. But in the most flavorful way!
THE. MAIN. COURSE! Lentil Steak: lentil & Andean grains “steak”, house masala, seasonal farm vegetables, pickled Andean jicama, herb curry.
Postre: Coconut cream and lemon sorbet.
After dinner, and my traditional shot of double espresso, I walked home while overhearing the light ripples of music playing a few streets over. ‘Twas a beautiful day!
Day Four: An Afternoon in a Volcano and Mud
Before we get into how I got there, I started the day with an espresso and breakfast at Cafe de la Mañana, my neighborhood (for the week) cafe.
This time, I got the vegetable and hummus sandwich. I love how simple, but deliciously effective the breakfast options are here!
Volcan Totumo - the famous mud volcano!
One of the activities that made my “must-do in Cartagena” list was visiting Volcan Totumo! I’ve seen so many of my IG cousins visit and share their experiences of how soothing the mud bath felt. So, I had to give it a try!
I booked this tour through Viator, and specifically with the group Backpackers CTG (to book direct). If you get a choice of tour guides, please request Jose Daniel. From his professionalism, to relatability, to making sure you’re taken care of the whole tour, this was the best tour experience I’ve had!
What to Expect
After about an hour’s ride from the city’s center - ok, and a snack detour - you make it to the volcano. Upon first sight, it’s much smaller than perceived on Instagram. However, you are quickly reminded of the volcano’s relative size as you climb up the stairs! Once at the top, you’re helped into the mud where you are massaged and then allowed to spend time wading in a pool of mineral-rich mud. A surreal experience for sure, the mud has one of the most restoring feelings I’ve enjoyed! It’s warm, buoyant and has an exfoliating texture as you move your hands about. Tbh, I could have stayed in there for hours.
Booking Tip: Try to book a tour in the afternoon, or a private tour. This way, you avoid the long lines to get into the volcano, and you also don’t have to worry about the mud bath being overly crowded.
After enjoying some time to yourself being restored in the volcano - even writing that sounded so cool - you’re ushered down to the river where you’re helped to wash away all of the mud.
There’s a V funny story behind this photo. And if you ask me, I may just tell it to you!
Once you’re finished, you’re offered snack before hitting the road back home. And this particular detail is why I appreciated Jose Daniel so much:
As it is customary to leave tips for those providing services in the city, it can sometimes become overwhelming - especially, if you’re easily overstimulated by some social interactions like myself - since you’re being (kindly) requested by multiple people at once for tips. To make sure your relaxing experience is preserved, while assuring that the community is properly compensated for making that experience as relaxing as it was, Jose acts as a liaison and collects the tips from the tour group, then distributes the tips to each professional who helped for the day. He also helps you figure a fair conversion of currency for a proper tip offer. You will not need more than 50,000-80,000COP (around $12-$18) to contribute to the group’s tips.
Dinner - Can You Guess Where I Went?
When on vacation, mixed in with the pursuit of new experiences, when I find a restaurant I love - especially as a vegan - I gladly return throughout my stay, because I know that I will have a great time while enjoying a delicious meal. And for me, that place was Carmen. Too, this was my alleged last night in Cartagena. So, I wanted to make sure I loved everything about my send-off experience!
The "Caribbean Beer", a delightful mix of Costeñita beer, plantain syrup, mandarin, lime, and La Hechicera rum, was the perfect start to the evening's culinary experience!
Y'all ever tasted a meal that makes you just as mad as it does happy, because you know the only time you will enjoy it is on vacation? The Caribbean Salad is that meal for me. Ingredients: garden lettuces, local cashew nuts & pigeon peas from the Maria Mountains, sesame & cashew vinaigrette.
Another night, another lentil steak! But this time, I ordered it with a side of coconut rice. Little did I know, the rice is also sautéed with plantains. So when I tell you this meal sent me!
To close the night at Carmen, an espresso martini - with gin - was prepared, accompanied by one scoop each of passion fruit and coconut sorbet. Love, love, LOVE!
Extend My Stay? Why, I’m Glad You Asked!
During dinner, the Airbnb’s house manager texted me and told me that her next tenant had to cancel her trip, and if I was still interested in staying an extra night, the place was mine!
Earlier that day, I’d just mentioned that I needed more time and one more experience to feel like I’ve seen enough for this trip. After a call to the airlines to change my flight - free of charge - I gleefully accepted the offer for the extra day in Colombia!
Then, and because of the suggestion from a couple of cool travelers I met during my Volcano tour, I booked an island tour for my final excursion and where they’d be present!
Day Five - Because Four Just Wasn’t Enough!
So now, let’s island hop!
For my last day’s activity, I booked the Full-Day, 5 Islands Tour offered by Backpackers CTG - the same company that offered the Volcano Tour. If I’m honest, I had no real idea what I was to expect from this tour. But, it was a way for me to see other parts of Cartagena and the coast that I would not have experienced during this trip. So, why not?!
San Fernando Fort and Boca Chica
I was not disappointed!
Here’s the list of islands visited an what to expect:
San Fernando Fort of Boca Chica: you’ll be guided along the history of Cartagena, and the importance of the fort to the preservation of the city! Too, there are some clever architectural details that aided in the defense of the city!
Isla Grande - Snorkeling: And be prepared to see the entire cast of Finding Nemo during your time snorkeling! The fish and coral structures encompass a BEAUTIFUL array of colors. You may even be visited by a bar boat . . . you read that right!
Isla Grande - Beach Club: This gives you a moment to catch your breathe and rest up a bit from snorkeling . . . and in preparation for the next stop!
Isla Cholón - Aka, the party stop! Y’all, I’ve never experienced anything as awesome as I did in this part of the islands. Clearly, I was more occupied with the festivities than taking photos. Also, I wanted to make sure I didn’t drop my camera in the ocean . . . because, who knew our bar tables would be IN the ocean? All the cabanas, tables and fresh food offerings are made available to guests IN the ocean. I loved it!
And if you're seeing floating hookah, chiiiild, you're seeing right! Adding all the more to why this is called the party island.
Nuevo | Playa Blanca – Mambo Beach Club: this stop was much more calm, and was our last stop on the 5-island tour. Here, we got a chance to eat, and chill out on the beach before heading back to Cartagena’s mainland.
A peaceful moment enjoyed as the sun began to set on Nuevo Island - Playa Blanca.
Booking Tip: Again, if you can request Jose Daniel as your tour guide, please do so. Mainly because during this tour, you will be approached quite a bit for patronage of souvenirs, beverages, or traditional food items. Knowing this ahead of time will help you pack the proper amount of pesos for tips or if you plan on buying anything. I’d recommend taking $201,450COP, or $50USD. This should be PLENTY if you plan to buy drinks at the bars on the third, fourth, and last island, or if you want to support the local artisans during the island adventures.
Dinner - I Swear I Had Other Plans . . . Buuuuut
. . . I ended up back at Carmen! So, I originally had reservations at the coveted Celelé; a restaurant that was also on my “must visit” list. But, because we arrived later than planned, I made sure to cancel my reservation, and enjoyed my last dinner in Cartagena at Carmen.
That just means I need to go back, and SOON!
But, I still had a bit of unfinished business in the country . . .
I’d not yet danced salsa in COLOMBIA! So . . .
I headed back to Cafe Havana to remedy that! And y’all, I wish I could describe just how incredible this band was! Led by singer, Leidy Polo Julio, Orquesta La Brava is one of the BADDEST (good bad, not bad bad) orchestras I’ve ever witnessed! They have harnessed the historical power of classic salsa, reimagined it, and invigoratingly share is as they play every single instrument! When I tell you tears came to my eyes and goosebumps formed on my arms as the sound of trumpets met the piano, tambor, and angelic voices of the singers!
And if you think I didn’t get down and sweat out a NETTED shirt . . .
. . . then are we really even friends?!
Dancing my heart and (shoe) sole out in Colombia has been a bucket list activity of mine since dancing fully realized as my passion. And that night, a dream came true.
Now, I’ve got to dance in Cali!
Travel Day
But, how dare I leave without a proper photo shoot?
This time, I was the photographer and managed to get some perfect shots . . . if I do say so myself!
Before heading to the airport, I made one last stop to Cafe de la Mañana for my veggie sandwich and espresso fix!
If you have an afternoon flight, I’d highly recommend breakfast here. The wait was relatively short. And within minutes of ordering, you’ll have your meal!
But Wait, What About the House Tour?
I couldn’t have found a more perfect place to unwind for the week. And although I live a colorful life each day, when on vacation, I tend to book homes that are all white in color, with warm touches, and of course, plants! This way, I have a buffer in my thoughts, and space to mentally unwind and refilter my creativity. I like to think of it as visual silence, and I love it.
Overall, this was one of the best and most ‘rejuvenatingly’ clarifying solo trips I’ve ever been on. For one of the first times in my 30s, I got a chance to experience a place as a total newbie, ready to soak up every ounce of joy and knowledge from each adventure. There were moments when I had to rely on savvy to get around town, get groceries, and to simply experience daily living in Colombia.
Most importantly, this was one of the first trips where I allowed myself to completely disconnect, rest and prioritize me! I am a provider, and person who loves to create beautiful experiences for others as a way to infuse joy in a person’s day/life. And with that, I must remember that this role I consider a blessing also requires rest and pouring into myself with the same care I do for others.
So for me, this trip was a summation of the illustrious words stated by Dolly Parton: “Don't get so busy making a living that you forget to make a life.”
And although I will continue to be tenacious in my professional life - I love what I do, y’all! - I’m going to treat my joy and moments of celebratory rest with that same tenacity!
So to answer with whom I fell in love . . . I fell in love with the idea of the beauty of rest and self-care - a journey not just of discovery, but of reconnecting with myself so I can give my best to the world. Self-care, whether in adventure or staying home and enjoying your space is not a luxury - but a necessity.
Now, where should I visit next?
